A poured concrete patio usually costs less to install, and a plain broom finish is the cheapest option of all. A paver patio costs more up front, but it is made of separate units on a flexible base, so a cracked or sunken section can be lifted and relaid instead of broken out. Both last for many years when the base underneath is built well.
Our calculators work out the materials for either one: the paver patio calculator for pavers, base and sand, and the concrete slab calculator for a poured patio.
Pavers vs concrete at a glance
| Paver patio | Poured concrete patio | |
|---|---|---|
| Installed cost (typical) | $8 to $15 per sq ft for concrete pavers; brick and natural stone cost more | $4 to $7 per sq ft broom finished; $5 to $15 stamped |
| What it sits on | 4 to 6 in of compacted crushed stone and 1 to 1½ in of bedding sand | A slab at least 4 in thick, usually on a compacted gravel base |
| Cracking | Joints between pavers allow small movements; single pavers can crack | Will crack in places; control joints keep the cracks in straight lines |
| Repairs | Lift and replace individual pavers, re-level a low spot | Patch or seal cracks; a badly damaged area means breaking out a section |
| Upkeep | Top up joint sand, pull weeds, seal every few years if you want | Seal every few years; clean stains early |
| DIY friendliness | Slow but forgiving; can be built in stages | Hard to fix once poured; large pours need a crew and a ready-mix truck |
Cost: what you pay up front
For a 12 × 12 ft patio (144 sq ft), the national ranges work out like this:
| Patio type | Per sq ft installed | 144 sq ft patio |
|---|---|---|
| Broom-finished concrete | $4 to $7 | $576 to $1,008 |
| Stamped concrete | $5 to $15 | $720 to $2,160 |
| Concrete pavers | $8 to $15 | $1,152 to $2,160 |
| Brick pavers | $10 to $20 | $1,440 to $2,880 |
| Natural stone | $15 to $50 | $2,160 to $7,200 |
If you do the work yourself, compare the material costs instead. The project material cost calculator adds up pavers, base, sand and edging, or bags of concrete, forms and rebar, so you can compare the two totals.
Durability and cracking
Concrete shrinks as it cures and moves with temperature changes, so a slab will crack somewhere. Builders cut control joints so the cracks happen in straight lines instead of at random. A common rule is to space joints no more than 2 to 3 times the slab thickness in inches, measured in feet, so 8 to 12 ft apart for a 4 in patio, and cut them about one-quarter of the slab depth.
Pavers are individual units with joints between them, so the patio can flex slightly without visible cracks. Their weak point is the base: if it is thin or poorly compacted, pavers sink, rock or spread at the edges. Concrete also needs a firm, even base; a slab over soft or washed-out soil cracks and settles too.
Repairs and maintenance
- Pavers: lift the pavers over a low spot, fix the base, and relay them. Keep a few spare pavers from the same batch, because colors change between production runs. Sweep joint sand back in when it washes out, and deal with weeds in the joints.
- Concrete: seal small cracks before water gets in. Repairs show, and color-matching a patch is hard. Larger damage often means cutting out and repouring a section between joints.
- Both: sealing every few years protects against stains and weather. Clean oil, rust and leaf stains promptly.
How each patio is built
Paver patio
- Excavate for the base, sand and paver thickness, and slope the subgrade away from the house.
- Spread and compact 4 to 6 in of crushed stone in layers. See how deep a paver base should be.
- Screed 1 to 1½ in of bedding sand to an even thickness.
- Lay the pavers, cut the edges, and install edge restraints.
- Spread joint sand, compact the pavers with a plate compactor, and sweep in more sand.
Concrete patio
- Excavate, compact the subgrade and add a gravel base where needed.
- Build forms for a slab at least 4 in thick, sloped away from the house; plan 5 to 6 in under a hot tub or an outdoor fireplace. See the concrete slab thickness guide.
- Add reinforcement if your design calls for it, then pour, screed and float.
- Finish the surface (broom, stamped or exposed aggregate), and cut or tool control joints.
- Keep the slab moist while it cures, and follow the mix instructions before putting weight on it.
Materials for a 12 × 12 ft patio
| Paver patio | Quantity | Concrete patio | Quantity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pavers (plus 5 to 10% for cuts) | 151 to 158 sq ft | Concrete, 4 in thick | 48 cu ft = 1.78 cu yd |
| Crushed stone base, 4 in | 1.96 cu yd, about 2.7 tons | With 10% extra | 1.96 cu yd; order 2 cu yd |
| Bedding sand, 1 in | 12 cu ft (24 bags of 0.5 cu ft) | Or 80 lb bags at 0.6 cu ft each | 88 bags with 10% extra |
| Edge restraint | 48 ft (the full perimeter) | Form boards | 48 ft (the full perimeter) |
That last row matters for DIY. Mixing 88 bags of concrete is about 7,000 lb of material, and it all has to be placed and finished before it sets. Pavers can be laid a few rows at a time. See bagged concrete vs ready-mix if you choose concrete.
Which should you choose?
- Choose concrete for the lowest up-front cost, a smooth surface for furniture, or a simple shape that a crew can pour in a day.
- Choose pavers for easier repairs, a patio you can build in stages yourself, or a design with curves, borders and colors.
- Either way, the base and drainage decide how long the patio stays flat. Spend your effort there.
Sources
- Bob Vila: Cost of Pavers vs. Concrete (updated 2023, citing Angi and HomeAdvisor data) (installed cost per square foot, repairs, cracking and sealing)
- Concrete Network: How Much Concrete Do I Need for a Patio? (minimum patio thickness, heavier loads and ordering extra)
- Concrete Network: Control Joints in Concrete (joint spacing, depth and timing)
- ICPI Tech Spec 10: Application Guide for Interlocking Concrete Pavements (base, bedding sand and paver thickness)
