Laminate vs Vinyl Plank Flooring: Cost and Durability

By

in

·

The biggest difference is the core. Laminate is built on a wood-fiber board, which can soften and swell if water gets into it, so most laminate is only water-resistant. Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) has a vinyl core that tolerates water much better, which makes it the usual choice for bathrooms, laundry rooms and basements. Laminate feels firmer underfoot and many products have a hard-wearing surface; vinyl feels softer and quieter. Both click together and are popular DIY floors.

Whichever you choose, the flooring calculator gives you the area with waste and the number of boxes.

Laminate vs vinyl plank: key differences

LaminateLuxury vinyl plank
CoreWood byproduct (fiberboard)Solid vinyl core (rigid or flexible types)
WaterCore can soften and swell if water gets inVinyl itself is unaffected by water
Feel underfootSolid, firm, can sound hollow or loudA little give; usually quieter
ScratchesHard surface, but a scratched wear layer cannot be repairedCannot be sanded; deep scratches mean replacing planks
InstallationUsually click-lock floating floorUsually click-lock; some glue-down
CleaningDry methods first; avoid wet moppingEasy to clean
Summarized from the guides listed under Sources. Product lines vary a lot; check the warranty for the specific floor.

Moisture resistance and durability

Water is where the two floors part ways. Retailer and manufacturer guides agree that a laminate core exposed to water can soften and swell, and swollen laminate generally has to be replaced rather than repaired. Some newer laminates have water-resistant surfaces and joints, but they are still not intended for full bathrooms or basements. Vinyl tolerates spills, mopping and humid rooms much better.

For scratches and dents, the wear layer matters more than the category. Compare the wear layer thickness and the warranty terms of the specific products you are considering.

Which flooring works best by room?

RoomLaminateVinyl plankNotes
Living room, bedroom, hallwayGoodGoodEither works; choose by look, feel and budget
KitchenPossible, with careBetterSpills and mopping favor vinyl
Full bathroomNot recommendedGoodStanding water and steam
Laundry roomNot recommendedGoodLeaks and humidity
BasementNot recommendedGoodCheck moisture and the product’s below-grade rating
Homes with petsPossibleOften preferredAccidents and water bowls; clean up promptly either way
Always follow the installation guide for the exact product, including moisture limits for the subfloor.

Cost per square foot and installation materials

Both floors are sold by the box, with the coverage printed on the carton, and both come in budget, mid-range and premium lines that overlap in price. Rather than relying on averages, price the specific products you like and add the extras:

  • Underlayment if the floor does not have a pad attached, and a vapor barrier where the manufacturer requires it.
  • Transitions and trim: T-moldings at doorways, reducers, stair nosings, quarter-round or new baseboard.
  • Tools: a tapping block, pull bar, spacers and a saw or cutter.
  • Removal and disposal of the old floor, and subfloor leveling if needed.

How to estimate boxes and total project cost

  1. Measure the room. A 12 × 16 ft living room is 192 sq ft.
  2. Add waste: about 10% for straight installation gives 211 sq ft. See how much extra flooring to buy.
  3. Divide by the coverage on the carton and round up. If one product covers 20 sq ft per box, you need 11 boxes; if another covers 24 sq ft, you need 9.
  4. Multiply boxes by the box price for each product, then add underlayment, trim, tools and tax.

Notice that box coverage changes the count: comparing price per box can mislead, so compare price per square foot, then the total. The project material cost calculator adds the lines for each option so you can compare totals side by side.

Maintenance, repairs and lifespan

  • Keep both floors clean of grit, which scratches the wear layer; use felt pads under furniture.
  • Wipe up water quickly on laminate. Use the cleaning products the manufacturer recommends for either.
  • Store a few spare planks or a box from the same lot for repairs.
  • Click-lock floors can often be repaired by unclicking back to the damaged plank, or by a plank replacement method from the manufacturer.

Sources